Fireplace Safety

 Keeping FIRE in its’ PLACE

 We build our houses with type X fire rated drywall. The electrical code is written by the National Fire Protection Association. Gas piping has specific fire safety standards. We install fire doors, fire walls, fire blocking and fire stops.  So why do we then put an open flame in the middle of it all?  What is it about the idea of a fireplace that intrigues us? They are generally not a very efficient method of heating a home. Whatever the reason, fire deserves our full attention and respect. Regardless of what type of wood or gas burning fireplace you have, effective control of the heat and products of combustion is critical.
There are two basic types, masonry or metal. Both are lined with high temperature refractory bricks or panels. Take a close look. Gaps or cracks in this lining could allow hot gasses to escape and start a fire in the wall framing.  Sometimes all it needs is high temperature fireplace caulk but to be safe, call a specialist.
Around the campfire, it’s pretty obvious where the smoke is going.  So you stay away, or low, or upwind (if possible).  Fireplaces are designed to maximize comfort and minimize discomfort. The trick is the chimney effect.  Hot air rises in the chimney and draws in more hot air to rise etc.  
 Masonry chimneys are lined (with refractory tile) or unlined. The lined masonry type is the most dependable because the flue liner provides a smooth transition for the bi-products of combustion to be vented as well as a thermal barrier. On the contrary, unlined chimneys without flue liners, are suspect. Although such flues usually include a plaster coat of mortar, the corrosive effect of flue gases and the elements can deteriorate the mortar. The Chimney Safety Institute of America reported in 1992 that "all unlined chimneys, irrespective of fuel used, are very liable to become defective through disintegration of the mortar joints."  To be safe, call a specialist to have it video-scanned which is the only way to get a good look. 
Pre-cast concrete chimneys are built in factories and then trucked to a site, as opposed to masonry chimneys that are built on site with bricks and mortar. Because of their unique construction, they are prone to cracks that require specific repair methods determined by the manufacturer. If the crack can’t be repaired, the chimney is not usable. For more information go to: www.fireplaceinspections.com. 
Pre-fabricated metal chimneys are in wide use today.  They are an engineered product and each component should be approved for use by the manufacturer. Sometimes they are fitted with architectural shrouds that are not approved by the manufacturer and drafting and cooling are compromised.  If you think there is a drafting problem or you see unusually dark stains at the chimney top, you probably should have a specialist look at it.
 You should be able to see a weathercap on top of the chimney. This keeps the rain from washing debris down the chimney that could collect on the smoke shelf and inhibit the draw.  The spark arrestor screen can’t always be seen from the ground but should be there to keep your fire from lighting your roof (or the neighbors) on fire. 
The damper closes the chimney when it’s not in use and prevents loss of heat. If you start a wood fire with the damper closed, you fill the room with smoke.  But, if you have a nice ornamental gas log set in the fireplace, the damper could be closed and you could fill the room with carbon monoxide. To prevent this, manufacturers recommend installation of a damper stop to prevent full closure.   
 The area in front of the fireplace opening is meant to be non combustible, so please don’t paint the hearth or put that bear skin rug too close. Keep it at least 16-20 inches away.  Same goes for a wooden mantle, which should be at least a foot away from the fireplace opening.    
The bottom line is… If you suspect there might be a safety problem, get it checked by an expert and keep fire in its’ place.