Water Heater Safety

WATER HEATER SAFETY
 

We usually don’t think about our water heaters until we are standing in the shower all lathered up and the water suddenly turns cold.  Or we see water coming out of the water heater and spreading all over the floor. This article is about safety issues common to both gas and electric water heaters. 
Here in California, residential water heaters are required to have flexible water pipe connections. Water heaters are heavy and can break free in an earthquake if not secured.  Gas or electric lines can be broken and may cause a fire.  Is your water heater seismically secure?  Any new or replacement water heater sold in California after July 1,1991 is required to be braced, anchored or strapped.  There are 12 pages of guidelines written by the Division of the State Architect on this subject.  You can just go to the hardware store and get a strapping kit and install it according to the instructions.  Another less obvious reason to strap your water heater is that in the event of an emergency, it is a source of fresh drinking water, provided it hasn’t fallen over.
A malfunctioning water heater is capable of turning water to steam.  If a cup of water can fill a room when converted to steam, what will forty gallons do?  This potentially explosive condition is easily remedied with a properly installed temperature and pressure (T&P) valve.  Look at your water heater on the side or top for an angle fitting with a funny little lever.  This is the T&P valve.  If you don’t see one, call a plumber now.  It should be mounted directly on the water heater. If the temperature or pressure in the water heater exceeds safe limits, the T&P valve is designed to open. When it does, it will be discharging very hot water and/or steam.  The discharge pipe attached to the valve has its own set of rules. It may not be smaller than the size of the T&P valve, usually ¾ inch.  It must be run in smooth walled pipe, so flexible sections are not permitted.  It should run downhill so that it drains dry.  It must discharge to the exterior to terminate about six inches off the ground pointed down. 
If your water heater is in the garage, it must be elevated at least eighteen inches off the floor. This is because the first eighteen inches of a garage housing automobiles is considered a potentially explosive environment.  No source of ignition (gas or electric) is allowed in this area. 
Some homes have hot water circulating pumps for “instant” hot water at even the furthest faucet.  For safety, these pumps should be plugged into Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter receptacles.  For energy conservation, use the smallest pump possible and connect it to a timer or thermostat.
A cold water shut off valve at the heater allows for continued use of cold water elsewhere in the house if the water heater is out of service.  Although gate valves may be less expensive, they tend to become inoperable. Ball valves are better suited for this purpose.
Like anything else, water heaters get old and when they get old they leak. It’s not a question of ‘if’ but ‘when’.  If it’s in the garage it probably won’t do much damage.  If it’s inside the residence, a properly installed drip pan and a drain line under the water heater can prevent significant property damage.  The drip pan can become a “flood pan” and won’t do much good without a drain.
 If you find that your water heater is leaking; turn off the gas or electricity, turn off the cold water supply, and call your favorite plumber.